After passing the gravel test of Hwy 27 we stopped at the Riley Stage Stop to refuel on coffee and muffins. 21 more miles brought us to Hampton, and the closed store front that became our home for the night. In the morning we continued our usual oatmeal routine but the stove fuel was too cold to light. Most of our water was solid and what liquid we could extract froze in the pan! It was to be a cold breakfast, -10 °C. Sunrise above the mountains thawed the range land and we basked in its golden rays. Reluctantly we pushed on as temperatures barely rose above freezing, +65 miles later we found ourselves in Burns, resupplied for a jaunt over Steens Mountain the next day.